Rest in Reims

The French adventure of my Camino started this week. I've already completed two of the four countries I'm walking through. But the largest part of this Camino is crossing France. That makes it high time for me to learn French, which really only is un petit peu.

It started in Rocroi, an old medieval village surrounded by fortress walls in the shape of a star. Located in the north of the French Ardennes. The village has a size of 50 km², about 2250 inhabitants and delicious bread.

After an intensive trail through the forest of the Ardennes. Through mud puddles, rivers and trails that didn't seem to be one, I arrived in Rocroi on day 15 after a modest 17.7km. At the tourist office I received a nice stamp in my pilgrim passport and instructions to the municipal hostel for the night.

Anne was already there, and later in the afternoon 2 other ladies from Breda (NL)arrived. Amy and Lia, they have completed the first week of their 6-week journey. In the evening we shared our stories while enjoying a pizza and a glass of red wine. Because yes, even in a small French village like this there is Italian pizza.

After breakfast with delicious fresh French bread, day 16 started in the wrong direction. I had to buy food, because the village where I spend the night has no restaurant or supermarket. Upon arrival yesterday, I had passed the shop in Rocroi, but unfortunately it was closed on Sunday afternoon. So the morning started with walking back.

With supplies in my pack I walked towards Aubigny les Pothees which was about 22.5 km ahead of me.

A beautiful route through the hilly area of northern France. It was pleasant walking weather, but somewhat cool during breaks.

For my lunch I had fresh bread with hummus, avocado and tomato, after having jam on bread at people's homes for a number of days, I had cravings for this.

Halfway through my lunch I was joined by Jan and Geert from Flanders (BE). Brothers-in-law who walk together for 1 week, and then Geert walks alone for 1 week.

They had arranged the same accommodation as I did, so for now I quickly started walking again because it is just too chilly to sit and chat for a long time.

The field-beds where made up for us in the municipal shelter. Unfortunately, there was no shower. The kitchen had a microwave where our 'ping' meals were warm in minutes and we dined together.

The next morning the sun shone through the windows and it promised to be a beautiful day. Today's route led me through hilly meadows with beautiful views. As if I was walking through New Zealand. But with cows instead of sheep.

The cows here are very curious. Also saw the first calves running in the meadow. Wonderful to see them jumping happy and free with their mothers nearby. Sadly, I also got to see them where they were isolated and terrified in a mini cubicle.

It was a tough day. 31km. Of which no more than 5km was flat. A day of climbing and descending.

By evening on day 17 I arrived, very much done, in the village of Justine-Herbigny and I was allowed to spend the night in the most special Gîte (as they call the houses here).

A wonderful night's sleep after yesterday's exertion. I would have liked to have stayed another night, but my food supply didn't allow this, so I put my pack back on and left the gîte behind me.

On day 18 I walked to Saint-Loup-en-Champagne. But this was not yet set in the morning. There was an overnight option, but it was a few villages further. The choice was therefore, whether to walk a lot of kilometers again, or to set up my tent.

I would see what the day would bring.

After the first 5km in the next village I bumped into Anne, who I hadn't seen since Rocroi (2 days ago). She was with Angelo, a fellow pilgrim from Leuven (BE), who also walks the entire route to Santiago de Compostela.

The 3 of us walked to the next village. Shopping supplies and something to eat.

Angelo continued on a different route and Anne and I continued together.

Shortly after I started having problems with my left shin. Oh what is this now. Walking slower felt most comfortable and I was scared to make it worse. The road was very boring, just down the road, where every now and then a car passed by. Anne kept pace with me for mental support 😊 until the next village, here we ate together. She then continued on walking and I stumbled at my leisure for another 3km, which still brought me 22.5km further.

So camping it is then.

I found a nice bit of forest. Surrounded by beautiful yellow flowers, plentiful birds singing, a butterfly and a squirrel. So lovely.

That made up for the cold of the night, a bit...

After a breakfast in the tent I packed my things and set off. My shin felt good, luckily, after a night of rest. From Saint-Loup-en-Champagne I started my route to Bazancourt. The last stop before Reims.

The route was straight.

And long.

And soaking wet from the rain.

And I walked through a kind of clay-like soil that stuck to my shoes like clogs.

After 14km (day 19) I was early in Bazancourt, but I really didn't feel like walking any further. I wanted a hot shower.

Fortunately, this was there for me at the municipal hostel. There was not much else, but a good mattress and a microwave. For a free night, nothing to complain about.

I expected day 20 to be another shorter route. But it turned out to be 19.4 km to get into the heart of Reims.

The first 15 km over vast meadows with rapeseed fields, over that clay-like slab of soil. The last 5km through the suburbs of Reims.

Glad I was there. Because in Reims, rest was waiting for me.

I booked a room in the same hotel as Anne and Angelo and the 3 of us made it a pleasant afternoon and evening in the big city. The fun consisted mainly of food. We seemed to be starving hikers.