Warm Hearts
A combination of strenuous and gorgeous. This week had both, but it started with strenuous.
The day I walked out of Reims, after a wonderful rest day, was tough. As if I had to get back into the rhythm, my backpack was heavy and my feet were aching. After the first 5km I walked out of town and through the vineyards, uphill and downhill, regularly slipping through mud. On top of that, it rained for most of the day.
The highlight was definitely the piece of vegan chocolate banana bread that I brought from my favorite place in Reims, called "Emilie and the cool kids".
My destination of day 22 was in the middle of the champagne vineyards which I reached after a tiring 28.8km.
Rested and fed I started day 23. Also full of climbing, descending and mud. There was a time pressure and the route was longer than I liked. I hiked 28.4 km and with that I marked my first 500 km!
At 5 pm I had to be at the church just before the village, where I was picked up. A little Renault pulled up and an old lady got out, crooked as could be, and not a word of English. I immediately took off my shoes at the front door because I looked like a pig after all that slogging through the mud. She me offered slippers and to do my laundry for me. The fireplace was going where I warmed up nicely while madame prepared dinner. She served no less than 4 courses. Soup-main-cheese-dessert. We ate together with google-translate between us so that we could have some kind of conversation.
In the morning at 7 o'clock I got breakfast with fresh bread that she already bought at the bakery that morning. Before I left I paid her. She thanked me and said she doesn't want anything for it herself and that the money is for the parish. She does it because she wants to take care of the pilgrims.
A warm heart.
Day 24 I walked to the village of Sezanne. This night I wanted to camp. It was the third day after I left Reims and it was plowing again. A soggy route of 29.9 km through the mud. I was so done with it. Crying stood me nearer than laughter.
It also turned out that it would only be 3 degrees that night, so I didn't really felt like camping.
At the tourist office I asked for help but they could only offer me overnight stays for 80€.
On good luck I called Anne (fellow pilgrim). She had rented a 4-person house with 3 other pilgrims (Caroline, Marjoke and Martijn). After a short consultation she told me that I was welcome to sleep on my mat in their house. I was so happy with this that I gave her a big hug when seeing her. It was a very pleasant evening which gave a nice end to this difficult day.
Warm hearts.
3 more days to reach Troyes. The landscape changed and the weather got better.
From Sezanne I walked a gentler 26.4km to Bagneux on day 25. The route ran between the vineyards and the rapeseed fields along an old railway line. I had left early that morning, so I could take a nice long break in the afternoon and enjoy the sun. Yes, this is what I signed up for!
That evening I was well taken care of by Andre and Agnes. A good shower, a nice double bed and delicious food. A delicious vegetable soup, simply made from leek, potato and carrot. As a main course, a potato salad with green leaf lettuce and an omelette, all from their own garden. Cheese and a yoghurt with homemade jam. All this while enjoying a delicious glass of red wine.
Agnes speaks good English which she has mainly learned during the 12 years she has been hosting pilgrims. She has a very open and spontaneous personality, which made it a very pleasant evening.
In the morning after a nice breakfast Agnes walked outside with me to see me off. In her garden there were lilies of the valley that she picked for me and put in my fannypack.
In France, the lily of the valley (or 'muguet' in French) has been given as a gift for centuries. According to legend, the custom began on May 1, 1561 when King Charles IX received a sprig of the small flower as a sign of good luck. It has been a special tradition ever since.
The meaning of the lily of the valley is the end of winter and the beginning of spring. The lily is a symbol of warmth and joy. Around May 1, people give a few sprigs of the flower to loved ones to wish them good luck throughout the year.
With an euphoric Camino feeling I waved goodbye to Agnes and started day 26.
A warm heart.
Until Savieres I walked on a monotonous straight road along the Seine Canal. Enjoying the beautiful forests along the canal in the sun and the different fauna that I spotted along the way. Swans, herons, a beaver, salamanders and various fish species.
In Savieres I was warmly welcomed after a nice 23 km by Martine, her 2 granddaughters (13 and 8) and a very enthusiastic dog.
The two girls live just below Paris and were allowed to spend their 2 weeks of May holiday with grandma. This meant, among other things, baking together in the kitchen. Well, was I a lucky one.
The indulgence already started with freshly baked cookies with tea. Dinner started again with very tasty vegetable soup with freshly baked bread. Followed by a home-baked vegetarian pie as a main course, zucchini tomato and goat cheese. As dessert, a delicious piece of apple pie.
The 13-year-old granddaughter was quite good at translating my English, the rest went through Google translate again. But even without talking it was a fun night with lots of girly giggles.
In the morning during breakfast where I got three different types of homemade jam (A gooseberry jam, one made from poppy flowers from her garden and a tomato jam, made from the green tomatoes in the fall that don't get enough sun to ripen), she asked if I had any tips for her to improve. She was concerned that the house might not be tidy enough.
My was response was; absolutely no improvement needed! As a pilgrim, we do not expect a hotel, but rather a stay in someone's home. And home that’s alive because people live in it. That's what makes it so much fun!
Here too I was send off by the lady at the door until I was out of sight and I went back on the road with that same euphoric Camino feeling.
A warm heart.
It rained lightly that morning. And I had another 15 km along the canal to Troyes. The forest area along the canal smelled wonderful because of the fresh rain. I really enjoyed it and even smelled differences from some trees, although I don't know which trees.
On the afternoon of day 27 I put the rain behind me and after 19.4km I arrived in a sunny Troyes.
Troyes is a city in the Grand Est region of northeastern France. At the bottom of the champagne district. The medieval old town has narrow, cobbled streets lined with colorful half-timbered houses, most dating back to the 16th century. The old town gives a cozy and village feeling, while it is also very touristy.
I had booked a mini apartment in one of the old traditional houses in the center. Located on the third floor, I had to go up a number of stairs, none of which were straight. The hallway creaked on all sides and led me to a small door with 3 locks. Behind this was my house for the night. A double bed under the sloping skylight, a kitchenette, table with TV and a bathroom with shower, sink and toilet. Very cute.
I had half a day to explore Troyes. I didn't feel the need to take a rest day here, so I had to spend the afternoon productively. Visit the basilica and get a stamp, visit the cobbler to repair my shoes (the heels were already very worn inside). Eating my very first fresh strawberries of this year, picked up at the vegetable market. Walked around the beautiful streets as a tourist. Drinking a glass of wine on the terrace with Caroline and Marjoke. Bought a little something (because something big doesn't fit in the backpack) for Anne because she turned 30 today.
I was invited to dinner that night. Anne had her boyfriend and family visit for a few days. This was also the last time we would meet on the Camino because Anne follows a different route than me from now on. It was therefore very nice and cozy way to end the evening, my half-day in Troyes and the part of the Camino with Anne.
A warm heart.
A week of warm hearts and lots of Camino love. The people who open their homes and offer shelter to pilgrims do so with joy and pleasure. Whether they have been doing this for 12 years now or only started 3 months ago. They do it all with love from their hearts.
It's a different experience every time and I think it's lovely to be able to have a look in people's lives like this.
Along the way there are people who point you to a place for drinking water. People asking from their garden if you have a place to sleep. A young man walks out of his parking lot on his motorcycle and asked if I need something to eat or drink.
Most people recognize the St.James shell and wish me all Bon Courage (good courage) and a Bon Chemin (good way).
Mini moments of warm hearts.
The Camino Community (as I have come to call it) is also a very special warm heart. The fellow pilgrims I meet along the way and with whom I share a piece of my Camino. Everyone has their own story and their own reasons. All warm-hearted. We offer help and support where necessary and share beautiful moments with each other.
Some you encounter once, others several times. This way you have an idea who is ahead of you and who is coming after you. Contact details are often exchanged to share photos of each other, but also to pass on tips or advice, for example, for the upcoming place to sleep.
The Camino Community, a warm heart.
Thanks for reading, the next story will be coming soon! 🙏😘👣
