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This pilgrimage of mine to Santiago de Compostela consists of 3 large parts, which then each can be divided into different parts.

From home to Le Puy-en-Velay was 1/3, from Le Puy-en-Velay to the Spanish border is 2/3, and the Spanish part together with Mom is 3/3.

This 2/3 part I divide into the sections Conques, Lourdes and then the Pyrenees, I'm really looking forward to this last part! But it's still a few kilometers before I'm there.

From Le Puy-en-Velay a lot changed, the environment, the number of pilgrims, the number of toilets along the way, the options for food and fortunately also the weather.

On the morning of day 54, I couldn't leave Le Puy-en-Velay without attending the pilgrim mass. I had already heard from many that this was something special, and nothing could be further from the truth. All pilgrims entered the cathedral with their complete pack. The mass started at 7 o'clock. Of course this was again entirely in French, so I could give it my own interpretation.

In Vézelay the pilgrims, about 12 on the day I was there, were allowed to come forward to receive the blessing. Here in Le Puy-en-Velay, on this morning, there were about 120 pilgrims in the church, so the blessing was given to all present. The most special thing about this blessing was that at the end the ground opened up. There was a steel-type door in the floor, in front of the altar in the middle of the wooden benches where everyone sat. These doors opened electronically to reveal a staircase leading out of the cathedral. A staircase out of the church, which leads you onto the pilgrimage route with 134 steps. The pilgrimage route from Le Puy-en-Velay literally starts from the church. Very special.

Before the pilgrims descended the stairs to begin, or in my case continue, their pilgrimage, we were presented with a charm depicting the Black Madonna of Le Puy-en-Velay.

An unforgettable experience.

After descending the 134 steps I made my first stop at the boulangerie (bakery) and then walked out of Le Puy-en-Velay together with about 120 other pilgrims and continued my way on the GR65. On an average day, 200-300 pilgrims leave, so I was lucky that it was a bit less this morning. Compared to the 1 pilgrims of the past 2 weeks, this was more than enough for me.

I walked past people, people walked past me, I chatted with people here and there. Some walked alone, some in groups or pairs. They were mainly all French. Although it is the tradition to walk to Santiago de Compostela from your home, it is extremely popular in France to start from Le Puy-en-Velay.

The day itself was very varied, it had parts of asphalt, parts of the forest, but also a lot between the meadows on a very muddy path. So all the shiny new shoes got a blessing today too!

It was sunny, but there was a fresh wind and in the afternoon we even got a rain shower. Good to test all those new raincoats.

I hadn't booked anything for the evening, as opposed to the rest of the herd, who had all done so. I went for the Camino magic, for that one bed they keep free for the pilgrim who comes without a reservation. I had also heard that some places even say by phone that they are full but do have room on arrival. This is good in itself, of course, the original pilgrim walks and looks where he can find a place at the end of the day.

After a 23.7km I arrived in the village of Saint Privat d'Allier. I found thus a good distance for today so started looking for a gite. At the first gite d'etape I saw, the man already walked outside towards me. Of course he had room. 15,- I got a private room with a double bed and an ensuite shower/toilet. Above expectations!

Until I got to the room, it wasn't very clean, it's a good thing I have my own sleeping bag. The man himself was also a bit strange and in the end it turned out that I was the only pilgrim who stayed with him that night. The rest of the people were all in the tourist accommodations.

In the morning I came packed to go downstairs, I had indicated that I did not want breakfast. I was offered tea, well, okay then. If I want something with it, a banana is nice. At checkout, this "breakfast" consisting of tea and banana turned out to cost me 5 euro. Man's charity for the pilgrim seems to have a different approach from now on.

On day 55 I walked to La Clause. I started above the clouds and walked through hill and valley to the village of Monistrol d'Allier. Here was an old ruin where the goat’s walked over the roof. On the way I met several pilgrims again, new and old faces. 2 men with a walking cart, 1 of which also had a dog. With Sandra, Guillaume and Morgane I had good conversations in English and it was very pleasant to walk over with them.

In the village of Sauceges I bought tomato, avocado and some fruit in a shop, I still had bread. Just outside the village I found a picnic bench, Morgane enjoyed her lunch here, I joined and made myself a lush sandwich. It was wonderfully sunny which I thoroughly enjoyed.

The afternoon I walked on and marveled at how much has changed since Le Puy-en-Velay. All along the path there were signs describing the gites, like advertising boards, some even with pictures. As if you are choosing a hotel on vacation. Commercials of the Camino Trail. There is now also ample offer of food along the way. Many eateries, snack shops and sometimes even a food truck in a meadow. Everywhere along the road and along the houses you can see the scallop shell. There are also plenty of toilet and water points.

A lot of people who are now hiking with whom I have spoken are walking a stage of 10 days or 2 weeks. Lots of people go from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques. For some it is therefore more of an (active) holiday than a pilgrimage.

When I tell people that I walked from the Netherlands, I get a reaction with very wide eyes, surprise and respect. They are all impressed. I humbly enjoy this.

Shortly before the town of La Clauze I met Morgane again. She didn't have a place to sleep yet and this gave her some discomfort. I advised her to trust in the Camino magic and that something would come up. After a 28km walk we arrived in La Clauze at a small-scale gite and it turned out there where 2 beds available. Exactly what we needed.

There are many private Gîtes since Le Puy-en-Velay on the St. Jacques path. This is in or next to people's homes. Usually around 4-8 sleeping places and often they also cook for you here. As Michel in Gîte pelerin de Margeride also did for us. We sat at the table with 6 people, 5 ladies 1 gentleman, 5 French 1 Dutch. Michel seemed like our private chef. Chicory salad to start. As a main course traditional French potato dauphinoise made with local cheese that was still so young that it is only used for this dish. This was served with sausage, which was shared among the other 5 pilgrims and I got more dauphinoise. For dessert an apple tarte tatin with homemade yoghurt. And for € 1.50 we could also get a glass of wine. During the coffee/tea after dinner, Michel sat at the table to give us with a stamp in our credential (pilgrim's pass) and he told many stories. Morgane kindly translated some things for me. He told us that the people in the village traditionally bought a house for their children, to ensure that they 1) had a house close-by and 2) that no other people came to live in "their" village. This tradition still continues, but many of the children have moved to the big city, resulting in many empty houses in the village.

The most unusual thing he told was that many men live in the village, more than women. This has created a tradition that if you have not found a wife by the age of 45, you will remain single for the rest of your life.

On day 56 I walked from La Clauze to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole in 25km and had my first encounter with a snake during my lunch break. Just as I was packing my things I heard something rustle behind me. Only when it slid out from under my backpack did I see what it was. Luckily I had my phone at hand and I was able to film him while he quietly continued on his way. Later I learned that it was a Viper and that this species is poisonous, also to humans. Thankfully he didn't sneak into my backpack!

Speaking of beasts, I saw the beast for the first time in Saint Privat d'Allier. On the morning I walked out of there he emerged from the fog. The next day, in Le Sauceges, I ran into an even larger one, menacingly perched atop a mountain looking down on the town. In Chanaleilles it became clear to me.

It was the legend of 'de la Bête du Gévaudan'.

History says that in 1764 the beast made its first victim and hundreds more victims for the following 3 years. In 1765, 7 children (5 boys, 2 girls) came together to attack and they succeeded in killing the beast. Where the young hero of the story was rewarded by the king and became a lieutenant in the army.

Wolves used to live in this area, but was it a wolf or was it really a ferocious beast?

In Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole I went looking for a gite. There was a lot of rain and thunderstorms predicted for the night, so I slept inside again. Just when I paid for a bed in a dorm (shared room), Morgane walked in, also looking for a bed. Turned out I just had the last bed in the dorm, but there was a private room we could share. As pilgrim girls we can easily share a double bed. Just like I promised her, something with camino magic.

It turned into a very lovely evening, we took a walk through the village, got food at the supermarket. Enjoyed a glass of wine on the terrace under the awning, so that we were dry during a heavy downpour. In the room I heated food with my cooking stove and we shared stories with each other.

After a good night's sleep, we both continued our own Camino, knowing that we would meet again somewhere.

Day 57 was half a day. It was a Sunday, a good day to take it easy. I walked from Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont Aubrac in 18.7km. Around 11 o'clock I had a short break on a tree stump with a beautiful view over the mountains and a field with cows. Here I met Morgane again and together we walked to Aumont-Aubrac. This was my stop for the night and she walked a lot further, probably the last time we meet (Morgane walked this trip as far as Conques).

I made my way to the municipal campsite, which turned out to be free here. There was no one there when I arrived, so I picked out the nicest spot. As it became evening, more and more pilgrims came to set up their tents. It's nicer not to be alone on such a large campsite.

And yes, that free afternoon, of course I used it to write my stories to you.

In the meantime I had been walking through the l'Albrac National Parc for a few days and especially on day 58 the landscape was particularly beautiful. It was hilly. Paths between the meadows with beautiful Albrac cows. But also a lot of rocks and stones today. Beautiful area to walk through, the sun was shining nicely, a great day.

At the end of day 58, the rain jacket had to come out again for the last few kilometers. Here I met three young French hikers. We had a chat and when they heard that I came from the Netherlands. Their response was; Ah, you're that girl, you've walked all the way, we've heard about you!

Whaaat, they had already heard about me, I'm famous here in the Camino Community.

I walked from Aumont-Aubrac to Aubrac in 34.2km. Quite a distance covered because I wanted to spend the night in the town of Aubrac. Here was the pilgrims gite in an old tower. Via a spiral staircase, halfway up the stairs a madame was sitting at a table in the recess of the window, the reception. I was allowed to choose a bed on the second floor. The shared kitchen was on the third floor. A very nice stay. But this was not the reason why I wanted to spend the night here, that was the Aligot. The Aubrac area is not only known for its Aubrac (meat) cows, but also for the Aligot dish. This is a mashed potato with cheese through it, which makes it very stringy. It is believed that aligot was invented by monks who lived in the regional monasteries and were often visited by pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

It is traditionally made with tome fraîche cheese and served with sausage. Mine with a bowl of salad and bread. Tasted great with a nice glass of red wine.

Day 59 was a beautiful day. The weather was warm, there was a lovely summer breeze and the nature around me smelled delicious. The route ran through a beautiful forest area and for lunch I sat at a wonderful waterfall where I could cool my feet. Joy.

In the afternoon I walked through the beautiful village of Saint-Côme-d'Olt, unfortunately it rained at that time. I hesitated to spend the night there, but it was still early and the shower was short, so I walked a bit further. At the end of the afternoon I arrived at the campsite in Espalion, walked 32 km. The campsite was expensive and boring, but it was dry and the temperature was pleasant for the evening and night.

Espalion is another picturesque town that I walked through on the morning of day 60, bought bread and fruit, and ate my breakfast by the water.

From here I walked to the next picturesque place called Estaing, where I arrived just after noon and enjoyed my lunch with a view over the beautiful village.

These villages, Saint-Côme-d'Olt, Espalion and Estaing are among the most beautiful villages in France. They are characteristic for their location because they are surrounded by natural elements, but especially for their preserved and maintained old Romanesque style in architecture and their beautiful roof tiles. Very photogenic places.

After 27.5km I arrived in Golinhac. The dark clouds and strong wind chased me. Quickly check-in, in the hope of being able to set up the tent before the rain. It was all in favor, the tent was up, showered and quickly bought some groceries before the sky. Here too several pilgrims pitched their tents. Some have tents that you can't sit upright in, don't seem great to me, specially with rain.

From Golinhac I walked on day 61 to Conques in 21.8km. I had heard a lot about this and this town is also classified one of the most beautiful in France, so I decided to leave early so that I would arrive in time to visit the town in the afternoon. I was there at 13.00 and was already impressed upon arrival. Beautiful location, fantastic buildings and old-fashioned streets. A courtyard at the cathedral, cute tourist shops, restaurants and bars.

You could spend the night as a pilgrim in the Abbey Sainte Foy. Check-in was at 2 p.m., but I wasn't the first to put down my backpack. I hadn't made a reservation but luckily they had beds left. For 11,- I got a bed in a dormitory with 7 bunk beds, 14 pilgrims together.

In the afternoon I walked around Conques, took countless pictures. I enjoyed a glass of wine on a terrace. And well, if you want something to snack with it, you can choose from a cheese board or a meat plate in France, then cheese it is. Organic cheese from the area, very tasty and delicious wine too.

In the evening I ate dinner in an Auberge, something vegetarian please, they made me ratatouille with aligot and salad.

Here in Conques, they held an evening mass for the pilgrims. I think because many pilgrims walk from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques, they depart towards home early in the morning and may therefore hold an evening mass. The beautiful thing about this mass was that they sang the French pilgrim song 'Ultreia'. It gave me goosebumps.

After a bad night with an orchestra of snorers, it became light again at 6 o'clock. I packed my backpack, bought some fruit and bread and continued my pilgrimage.

On day 62 I walked to Decazeville in 17km. Here was an ecogite that had hammocks. After that bad night with snorers, I couldn't resist this one.

The weather was nice and sunny, so I quickly put up my tent and went to chill in the hammock, my favorite place to be. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to enjoy it apparently, after less than 10 minutes a black sky came blowing in, so I quickly went into my tent. Thunder, hail and lightning. Hail chunks as thick as ice cubes. Thunder and lightning right above me. A really heavy storm. I was unsure whether my tent would hold, so just to be sure I put the rain cover on my backpack and had my shoes and raincoat ready in case I had to evacuate. Fortunately, my tent turned out to be of strong quality and this was not necessary. My neighbor with the same brand of tent also got through the storm alright.

This ecogite does not cook dinner for its guests, but has a small shop and a large communal kitchen. In the shop he sells dry food per weight and non-perishable products, unfortunately no fresh fruit or vegetables. I bought a double portion of rice, a can of corn and a can of peas and carrots. And of course a carafe of red wine, for €1.70 I can't say no to that. I spiced up the rice with the curry spices and chili flakes that I have with me. And the leftover, that is lunch for tomorrow…

In these past days I have encountered many different nationalities, Spanish, Swiss, German, Armenian, American, English, Australian, many French and 3 Dutch. 1 donkey and 3 dogs. Also met some people on bicycles. The variation is large, also in terms of age and relationship. Friends, girlfriends, family, cousin, mom, daughter, couples, but many people alone. It is estimated that about 60% of pilgrims is female.

And I am one of them in this enormous procession. One that gets closer to Santiago de Compostela every day, step by step 👣😘